I can hardly believe it myself, but I have already visited four islands of the Okinawa archipelago! After my first visit, I was immediately sold. Ishigaki in particular was high on my list, because so many people told me that it would be even more beautiful than the main island. In February, the time had come: I flew from Tokyo to Ishigaki in four hours and stayed there for five days.
Island hopping in Okinawa – My adventure on Ishigaki and surroundings
I stayed in a hostel-like hotel, but to be honest, I was disappointed. My ‘room’ turned out to be a cubicle in a dormitory, which caused a lot of noise pollution. My tip: pay a little more and choose a real hotel room, unless you are really used to hostels.
I had made a general plan of what I wanted to see and do, and in the end, four full days were more than enough to explore the island properly.
Highlight: Taketomi Island
On Sunday I took the ferry to picturesque Taketomi. To my surprise it was wonderfully quiet. Instead of renting a bike I decided to walk, after all I had the whole day. The island feels like stepping back in time: traditional Ryukyu houses, sandy roads lined with wild flowers and coral walls. I skipped the ride on the water buffalo-drawn cart and wandered around at my leisure. I thought the most beautiful beach was Kaiji Beach with beautiful white sand, clear water and the famous star-shaped sand grains. For lunch I went to the cozy Café Kanoa, where I enjoyed a delicious vegetarian pizza, lovingly made by the friendly owner.
You can also stay overnight, something I would definitely have done if I had read up a bit more beforehand. How special is it to admire the stars at night on this island or take a refreshing dip in the Pacific Ocean early in the morning?
Cycling to Kabira Bay
The next day I rented a bike (a basic model from my hotel) and cycled along the coast towards Kabira Bay. The route was beautiful and peaceful, with little traffic and lots of butterflies. Kabira Bay itself was a bit disappointing: it was busy because of a cruise ship and the weather didn’t cooperate either. I decided to cycle on, but my enthusiasm took me into a long, dark tunnel which I definitely can’t recommend! At this point you’re better off turning around and cycling the same beautiful route back, with a bit of luck you’ll be going downhill.
Rain and taking it easy
On a rainy day I stayed in town, had lunch at Klatch Coffee (recommended!) and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere. When it cleared up, I took the bus north to the Hirakubozaki Lighthouse. The area was much quieter than the south, with untouched nature and almost no tourists. I walked along the coast, discovered a small local shop with handmade items and ended up on a deserted beach.
As in many places in Japan, public transport is also well organised on Ishigaki. Because I am not allowed to use an international driving licence as a resident of Japan, I unfortunately could not rent a car, but that would have been ideal on such a compact island. So I got around by bike and public transport, which was perfectly doable.
A final excursion to Kohama Island
On my last day I wanted to visit another island. On the advice of a friendly ferry employee I went to Kohama. Unfortunately it was rainy and the island felt very deserted with many dilapidated houses and little atmosphere. So I was quickly back on Ishigaki.
Are you looking for peace, space and beautiful nature? Then Ishigaki is definitely recommended. I visited the island in February, and although I had a few rainy days, it was still wonderfully pleasant with around 25 degrees. Keep in mind that it can be busier in July and August because of the Japanese summer holidays. At the same time, there is probably a more lively atmosphere on the islands, which also has its charm.
Despite the changeable weather, I am so happy that I was able to discover this archipelago. If I get the chance, I will definitely go island hopping in Okinawa again!
Read more about Okinawa? Read more about my experiences in the rest of Okinawa here.
